The perfect 3-day Baku itinerary — written by locals

Icheri Sheher — the UNESCO Old City in depth

Start early at the main eastern gate (Qosha Qala — the double-tower gate) and enter the Old City before the day-tripper crowds arrive at 10am. If you have a guide, this morning is where their value is most obvious — the Old City contains layers of history that are completely invisible without context.

Key stops: Maiden Tower (Qız Qalası) — the 12th-century octagonal tower whose purpose is still debated (watchtower, astronomical observatory, or Zoroastrian temple?). The exhibition inside is well done; the views from the roof over the rooftops and the Caspian are excellent. Allow 45 minutes.

Palace of the Shirvanshahs — a 15th-century royal complex at the highest point of the Old City. Beautifully preserved, with a domed mausoleum, bath house, and stone court. Less visited than the Maiden Tower but architecturally finer. Allow 45 minutes.

After these two anchors, wander the lanes freely. The Old City is small enough (5 hectares) to explore without a map. Look for the carpet and silk shops in the covered arcade, the oldest mosque in Baku (Multani Caravanserai area), and the small Albanian church near the western wall. End with tea at a courtyard café — there are several tucked into the medieval lanes.

Lunch in the Old City

Eat inside the Old City for lunch. Several restaurants serve good traditional food at reasonable prices. Order: piti if it's on the menu (slow-cooked lamb, chickpeas, chestnuts in a clay pot — ask the server to show you how to eat it traditionally), or dolma (stuffed grape leaves with rice and lamb), or a simple grilled meat platter with bread and salads. Avoid the obvious tourist traps near the Maiden Tower entrance — walk one or two streets further in for better quality and lower prices.

Azerbaijan Carpet Museum

The world's largest museum dedicated to carpets — and the building itself is shaped like a rolled carpet, which makes sense once you understand that Azerbaijani carpet weaving is a 2,000-year-old tradition with UNESCO Intangible Heritage status. The collection traces every regional style, era, and motif across 14,000 square metres of exhibition space. It is genuinely world-class and completely unique. Even non-rug-enthusiasts find it fascinating — the historical context and the extraordinary variety of patterns are compelling. Allow 1.5–2 hours.

Heydar Aliyev Center

Take a Bolt (10–15 minutes, about 4 AZN) to the Heydar Aliyev Center — Zaha Hadid's masterwork and one of the most distinctive buildings constructed anywhere in the world in the 21st century. The seamless white wave of concrete — deliberately free of all straight lines, right angles, or sharp corners — is extraordinary in person in a way photographs cannot capture. The permanent exhibition inside tells Azerbaijan's history through world-class installations. Plan 1.5 hours here.

Funicular and the Upper City at sunset

Return to the Old City area and take the short funicular ride to the Upper City — the hilltop where the Flame Towers rise above. From the observation platform at the top, you get the definitive panoramic view: the entire walled Old City below, the Caspian and Boulevard extending left and right, and the Flame Towers close enough to see the individual LED panels. Arrive 30 minutes before sunset for the golden hour light, then stay as the towers begin their evening light show. This is, without question, the best view in Baku.

Evening on Nizami Street

Nizami Street is Baku's main pedestrian shopping and dining street — a mix of 19th-century oil-baron architecture, boutique cafés, international brands, and local shops. It is lively in the evening and good for a relaxed dinner followed by a walk. For dinner along or near Nizami Street, ask your accommodation for current recommendations — Baku's restaurant scene changes quickly and local advice is more reliable than guidebook listings that may be years old.

Absheron Peninsula — Ateshgah & Yanardag

Book a private half-day tour to the Absheron Peninsula (our team arranges this) or take a Bolt to Ateshgah (30km, about 30–35 minutes). The Ateshgah Fire Temple was built in the 17th and 18th centuries by Indian Zoroastrian and Hindu pilgrims who came to worship a natural gas vent that burned continuously for centuries. The pentagon-shaped fortress with its central altar, Sanskrit and Persian inscriptions, and monks' cells is one of the most atmospheric historical sites in Azerbaijan. The flame at the altar is now re-lit artificially (the original was extinguished by oil drilling in 1902), but the setting is unchanged. Allow 45–60 minutes.

From Ateshgah, continue to Yanardag (Burning Mountain) — 25km away, about 20 minutes. A hillside that burns continuously from natural gas escaping through the rock. In daylight the flames are visible but modest; at dusk (if your Day 3 allows a late departure) they become dramatically intense against the darkening sky. The site has a good viewing platform and a small museum. Allow 30–45 minutes.

Lunch — farewell Azerbaijani meal

Return to Baku for your last lunch. If you haven't yet had a proper Azerbaijani feast, today is the day. Find a traditional restaurant and order generously: cold meze, soup (dovğa or bozbash), a clay pot main, bread, and pomegranate juice. Azerbaijan is not an expensive country — a full, excellent meal for two with drinks is typically 25–40 AZN ($15–25).

Last hours — Nizami Street shopping & the History Museum

Use your remaining afternoon for the History Museum (if you skipped it — it occupies an extraordinary 1893 oil-baron mansion and its collection covers 300,000 years of Azerbaijani history), or for shopping on Nizami Street. The best things to take home from Baku: local saffron (among the world's finest, at a fraction of the European price), pomegranate products (molasses, wine, juice concentrate), handmade magnets and ceramics from the Old City bazaar, and Azerbaijani wine.

Airport transfer

Bolt to the airport from the city centre costs 15–25 AZN and takes 30–45 minutes depending on traffic. Book the car 20–30 minutes before you need to leave, not on arrival — Baku traffic can be unpredictable.